Schloss Schönbrunn - photo by Laura Oslick
From the window seat on my flight from Venice to Vienna, I thought back on my other trips to Austria. Twice as a teenager on a school bus tour, I sat in the back with my Discman while we snaked through the mountain roads. In my 20s I went with an ex, and those same roads held us captive in a car infested with ants. To this day, ants trigger an irrational level of fear in me. It’s a miracle our relationship survived that trip. (Side note: ALWAYS travel with your significant other before you commit. Nothing fast-tracks a compatibility check like a week on the road together.)
This time would be different. I spent a week traveling with fellow travel advisors from Vienna to Salzburg and on to Seefeld in Tirol, near Innsbruck, revisiting familiar places with a different perspective and getting to know a few new ones. We were hosted by our partners, Exeter International and the Sacher Hotels, which meant the triple treat of all three Sacher properties.
Yes, Sacher is the home of the Original Sacher-Torte, and you can have it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I also ate Wiener schnitzel in every city, strictly for research purposes.
A Day on My Own in Vienna
I arrived a day early for some solo time. One of my favorite things to do on any trip is leave open time on my calendar and let the day unfold however I feel in the moment, the same mindset I had as a kid reading Choose Your Own Adventure books.
The car scooped me up at the airport and dropped me at the Rosewood Vienna, which sits on Petersplatz overlooking Peterskirche, with horse-drawn carriages clip-clopping around the church below. I threw my bags down, surveyed the gorgeous room, and jetted off on the U-Bahn to Schloss Schönbrunn, the opulent former summer residence of the Habsburgs. I got there just before closing and scooted through it quickly without a tour or an audio guide, which was a mistake. There is so much to see, and I had no idea what I was looking at. I’d rather learn that lesson on my own time than on a client’s, so when my clients visit, they go with a private guide or at least a small-group tour.
I spent the rest of the evening walking around the historic center and finished with dinner at Neue Hoheit, the Rosewood’s rooftop restaurant.
Belvedere Palace - photo by Laura Oslick
Vienna, After Hours
I moved over to the Hotel Sacher Wien, and the rest of the week showed me exactly what my clients experience when they travel with my trusted in-country partners.
The top guide in Vienna walked us through the historic center and took us up to the roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The next day she led a private tour of the Liechtenstein Palace, then opened Belvedere Palace just for us after hours. Golden hour and perfect weather set the scene as we climbed the museum stairs. The engraved wooden doors of a salon overlooking the gardens slowly opened just as the pop of a champagne bottle signaled a string quartet to begin playing Mozart. Surprise and delight at its finest! We ended the evening admiring The Kiss and other Klimt masterpieces.
Vienna has another side, too. We headed up into the Vienna Woods, toured a farm, and tasted wine at local wineries. Despite all that, we barely scratched the surface. You could easily spend a week here with whole days dedicated to art, music, opera, architecture, history, or the horses at the Spanish Riding School.
Ball season is another reason to come back. I can get you to a Viennese ball, where you dress to the nines in a giant ball gown or white tie, waltz the night away, and collapse afterward into a sumptuous room at the Sacher.
The Train to Salzburg
Salzburg, the birthplace of Mozart and The Sound of Music, is an easy train ride from Vienna. Or so we thought. We settled into our first-class carriage and quickly realized something wasn’t right, because other passengers held tickets for our seats. Turns out the railway had forgotten to attach a second carriage for all the seats it sold. Fortunately, our escort sorted it all out and got us onto a new train with seats for everyone. We felt looked after the whole time and handled the hiccup with minimal stress.
I can’t say the same for a family from Spain who didn’t speak German. I’m still not 100% sure they made it to their final destination that day.
That’s when it’s nice to have a local partner on the ground to sort out issues as they come up, if not before. Exeter has a staff member walk clients onto the train, find the right carriage and the right seat, and wait on the platform until it departs. I’ve navigated similar train messes in Italy. Without the language, the customs, or a feel for how the system works, they get overwhelming fast.
Salzburg at Dusk - photo by Laura Oslick
Salzburg, With All the Views
Salzburg was as lovely on my fourth visit as it was on my first. The Salzach River runs right through it, with the historic center on one bank and the Hotel Sacher Salzburg on the other. The sunset views across the city from the balcony of my suite were to die for.
Most people want to stay in the middle of the old town, which I’ve done before. It’s charming, with cobblestone streets, restaurants, and shops at your doorstep. To take a contrarian stance, consider staying across the river for a more authentic feel. The old town is a short walk away. In the mornings you can ride a bike along the Salzach alongside locals on their commutes and get a sense of what living there is like. Spend your days on The Sound of Music tour, sauntering through the historic neighborhoods, and up at the fortress. For a first trip to Austria, Salzburg is a must.
Up on the Tyrolean Plateau
Our last stop was Seefeld in Tirol, a mountain village outside Innsbruck. We also got to revisit Innsbruck’s historic center and see the sparkling creations dreamed up by the artisans at Swarovski.
What really caught my eye was the Alpin Resort Sacher. Nestled up on the Tyrolean plateau, it brings together cozy alpine decor, an innovative wellness retreat, and fine dining. Despite six-course dinners every night, I only got an amuse-bouche of what it has to offer. Its Sacher Academy For Better Aging has me curious to come back, try one of everything, and go much deeper than a traditional spa experience. The resort is made for hiking in the summer and cross-country skiing in the winter. Alpin Resort Sacher stole my heart, and I wish it had stolen more of my time.
Alpin Resort Sacher Spa - photo by Laura Oslick
Austria, Any Time of Year
Austria is a wonderful year-round destination, every bit as beautiful as its neighbor Switzerland and steeped in history and culture. Spring through fall brings gorgeous weather for hiking, sightseeing, and soaking up the sun at an alpine resort pool. The winter brings a plethora of Christmas markets and the world-famous Vienna ball season. Festive travel is easy here since most of Vienna’s museums stay open on Christmas Day.
Where I Stayed, and the Perks You Get When You Book with Me
Vienna
Rosewood Vienna
Guaranteed one-category room upgrade, up to the St. Stephen’s Suite
Complimentary breakfast for two at Neue Hoheit Restaurant
€100 equivalent food and beverage and spa credit during your stay
Early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability at arrival
Hotel Sacher Wien
Upgrade on arrival, if available
Daily buffet breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the hotel restaurant
$100 USD equivalent hotel credit to use during your stay on food & beverage and at the Sacher Boutique Spa
Two complimentary first-class one-way train tickets per room between Vienna and Salzburg when you book both Sacher hotels on the same trip
Early check-in and late check-out, if available
Salzburg
Hotel Sacher Salzburg
Upgrade on arrival, if available
Daily buffet breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the restaurant
$100 USD equivalent food and beverage credit to use during your stay
Two complimentary first-class one-way train tickets per room between Vienna and Salzburg when you book both Sacher hotels on the same trip
Early check-in and late check-out, if available
Seefeld in Tirol
Alpin Resort Sacher
No standalone perks yet. Book it as part of the Sacher Triple Treat below.
The Sacher Triple Treat
For guests who book consecutive stays at all three Sacher hotels in a Junior Suite or higher:
First-class train tickets between the Sacher hotels (two per room) for easy travel between Vienna, Salzburg, and Seefeld
€200 experience credit per hotel, per booking
Vienna: museums, opera, and city tours
Salzburg: The Sound of Music tour and concerts
Seefeld: spa treatments and outdoor activities
Daily buffet breakfast for two