Venice, But Make it Non-Touristy
The Biennale, two five-star hotels, & a night at the opera
The Grand Canal from Ponte dell'Accademia - photo by Laura Oslick
My train from Bologna snakes its way into Venezia Santa Lucia, and I have three days floating in, out, and through beauty.
I hadn't been to Venice in 20 years and I didn't realize how much I missed it until I was back.
Venice is polarizing. Either you're hooked or once is enough. I'm hooked.
My first time in Venice was as a teenager on a high school tour of Europe led by Paula Parrish, faculty member / family friend. I still blame her for getting me addicted to travel at such a young age. I'll never forget the wind on my face as the vaporetto from Lido pulled into San Marco for a full day of hitting every tourist hot spot.
Doge’s Palace & Campanile - photo by Laura Oslick
This time, I upgraded it a notch. I was greeted by a charming man at the helm of a lacquered mahogany private water taxi glistening in the morning Venetian light. Sunglasses on, luggage handed off, and clad in white linen pants and a nautical top, I took my rightful place standing in the back letting the wind blow through my hair as we glided down the Grand Canal to my hotel, Palazzina Grassi. There I was welcomed at their private entrance, given a cappuccino in the restaurant, and then escorted to my stunning Grand Canal Suite. I flung open the arched windows, saw the gondolas floating below, listened to the bells of St. Mark's Basilica tolling out the time, and took it all in.
Principessa mode activated.
Doing it right on my 4th visit - photo by Laura Oslick
This stop was perfect for a few days of work-life integration in between my vacation week in Emilia-Romagna and a week in Austria for work. I opted to steer clear of the main tourist attractions and instead see the 61st La Biennale Arte spread across the historic Giardini and Arsenale venues and sprinkled throughout the city. I arrived on Sunday morning and immediately set off to Arsenale to soak in the art. I spent the day roaming in and out of venues featuring works by artists from countries all over the globe. From paintings and sculptures to more interactive installations, I loved being surrounded by pieces that delight, challenge, and intrigue.
Nick Cave's Amalgam (Plot) at the Arsenale - photo by Laura Oslick
Killing time before dinner by getting lost and popping in and out of non-ticketed Biennale shows, I texted a friend, Alix, that she would love it and should see it at some point. She immediately responded that she would be there in two days! I can't take the credit for being that persuasive, she was already coming but the timing was fortuitous. An already spectacular detour was somehow getting even better.
Aperitivo time near Ponte de la Veneta Marina - photo by Laura Oslick
The next day was Monday and that meant the Biennale was closed. Instead, I took the opportunity to tour two stunning hotels, the Palazzina Grassi (my hotel) and Airelles Palladio Venice. Both are five-star. They could not be more different.
Palazzina Grassi
Connection: I had lunch with their U.S. representation company in the spring and was invited to stay during my time in Italy.
Palazzina Grassi private entrance - photo by Laura Oslick
Overview:
The only Philippe Starck-designed hotel in Italy, Palazzina Grassi sits right on the Grand Canal tucked into a quiet part of San Marco. It's a 15 minute stroll through walkways, over bridges, and down Salizada San Moisè past Prada, Balenciaga, and Versace to reach Piazza San Marco. The San Samuele vaporetto stop at the hotel's doorstep will take you to the rest of Venice in a matter of minutes. You can also opt for a private water taxi or gondola ride to usher you around. The hotel is exclusive with only 25 keys and an attentive staff. The main level provides a nod to its history as a bath house, intentional rugs to mimic boat design, and modern art to provide a vibrant pop. Upstairs, the rooms ooze opulence with a strict adherence to whites, silvers, and mirrors throughout. You feel like you've been given access to another world most Venetians and tourists never see. There is also a rooftop bar area to sip an aperitivo before heading out to dinner. Speaking of food, the breakfast is plentiful, delicious, and overseen by a woman who remembers your preferences each day. Perfetto!
Who I'd put here: A design-forward couple seeking a well-located hotel with easy access to the sights without feeling overwhelmed by crowds.
Signature Grand Canal Suite bedroom - photo by Laura Oslick
Airelles Palladio Venice
Connection: In August, I met their sales manager in Las Vegas at Virtuoso Travel Week and immediately set up time to visit in person with the GM.
Interior courtyard at Airelles Palladio - photo by Laura Oslick
Overview:
On the other end of the spectrum is Airelles Palladio Venice, the first property outside of France for the ultra-luxury hotel group Airelles. The property spans a hectare of private gardens and four fully-restored 16th century buildings on Giudecca with unobstructed views of San Marco. It's an homage to ancestral craftsmanship, from the triple wooden doors that preserve the historic structures to pristine silk wall coverings and linens. It feels like arriving home, with the kind of serenity that's hard to find in Venice. The 17 rooms, 28 suites, and private 3-bedroom villa are all unique and designed just for the space. It has a commitment to wellness with a massive gym, yoga and Pilates studios (with three reformers), a spa, a hair spa, and three pools, including an indoor pool in the spa, an adults pool, and a kids pool. Speaking of kids, there's a kids club on site to keep your littles entertained while you munch on cicchetti at Zitelle Bacaro, lunch at abc kitchens Palladio, or catch live music at the new Elton's Club (yes, that Elton). Despite being on a different island from the main part of Venice, you can reach it easily by the hotel's private boats, private water taxi, or the vaporetto stop steps from the entrance.
Who I'd put here: Families who want a kids club without giving up a five-star stay, couples who put wellness and quiet first, and travelers who want to immerse themselves in authentic Venetian style and grace.
One of Suite del Doge’s four bedrooms - photo by Laura Oslick
Amenities:
Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
Daily breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the restaurant
$100 USD equivalent Food & Beverage credit to be utilized during stay (not combinable, not valid on room rate, no cash value if not redeemed in full)
Stays of 2+ nights will also receive a complimentary one-way trip by water taxi from Marco Polo Airport
Bookings in our Suite categories will also receive:
A Bespoke amenity according to suite and guest's profile
A complimentary round-trip by water taxi to/from Marco Polo Airport
Early check-in / Late check-out, subject to availability
With the Venice Film Festival opening two days later, the hotel was already fully booked, and they were prepping the Suite del Doge’s for a private event that evening. Luckily, I got to see it before the guests checked in. Take a look at my Instagram for video reviews of Palazzina Grassi and Airelles Palladio in my Up Close series.
On my last day, I walked back up to the Santa Lucia train station area to witness the immersive sound experience in the Holy See's pavilion at Giardino Mistico dei Carmelitani Scalzi. Afterwards, I met up with Alix, fresh off her flight, for lunch at Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti. We parted ways after lunch. I went back to regularly scheduled Biennale programming at the Giardini while she bumped into Diane von Furstenberg and helped her pick out vases for her foundation's awards ceremony.
That evening, we met up to swap stories of our vastly different afternoons over cicchetti and walked to Teatro Malibran for the closing performance of Gaetano Donizetti's comic opera L'elisir d'amore (The Elixir of Love). We both joined in as the crowd whistled and yelled, “Brava!" for the prima donna who gave her all on stage. I've seen opera in Sydney and Prague and more musicals and ballets than I can count. This was one of the finest performances I've ever seen. 10/10 highly recommend.
I was curious how my non-touristy trip to Venice would go, and every day was better than the one before.
It ended on a high note, literally.
On my way to tour hotels - photo by Laura Oslick
