The Italian Roads Less Traveled
Detour-worthy stops: Bologna, Ravenna, and a whole other country.
Sunrise train out of Bologna
Photo by Laura Oslick
It's 7:16am and the sun is rising over the trees to my right as I peer outside the train window as I pull out of Bologna. Finally a fresca morning after a week of hot late summer days in Emilia-Romagna.
I flew over to spend the last of Ferragosto with my boyfriend and to finally meet his family. It was filled with laughter, more than a few language mishaps, and one trip to the pharmacy for a spider bite. Let's just say it's difficult to type with a puffy, red finger but I'm powering through for you all the same.
Here are the highlights of off the beaten path things to do in Italy for those seeking something new or to escape the crowds of Roma, Milano, and Firenze.
Bologna
Somewhere along the 2.4 miles of Portico Di San Luca.
Photo by Lorenzo Lama
This bustling university town is the hub of the Emilia-Romagna region and is easily reachable by plane or train within a few hours from Rome, Milan, and Florence. Perfect for history buffs, foodies, and car enthusiasts. Spend a day or two roaming around the sites within Bologna such as Basilica di San Petronio, Basilica Santuario Santo Stefano-Complesso delle Sette Chiese, and Neptune's Fountain.
We couldn't climb Le Due Torri (The Two Towers) as they were undergoing some much-needed repairs. Wear your comfy shoes and walk the entire Portico Di San Luca, a 2.4 mile covered walkway from the city to the hilltop Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca. It is the longest continuous portico in the world featuring 666 arches and perfect for working off too much gelato.
Neptune's Fountain, Bologna.
Photo by Laura Oslick
This is the center of the food valley of Italy so grab a simple lunch of prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, and parmigiano reggiano or opt for one of the region's famous pastas such as passatelli, tortellini in brodo, or tagliatelle al ragù. We stuffed ourselves at Zerocinquantino.
Stay: One to three days either within Bologna or using it as a home base for days in Modena and Maranello drooling over cars such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Pagani.
Grand Hotel Majestic Già Baglioni
Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
Daily breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in the restaurant
$100 USD equivalent food & beverage credit to be utilized during stay at I Carracci and Café Marinetti
Early Check-In / Late Check-Out, subject to availability
Ravenna
Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna, where 1,500-year-old Byzantine mosaics still cover nearly every surface.
Photo by Lorenzo Lama
Slightly less well-known and just inland from the Adriatic Sea, Ravenna boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage sites showcasing jaw-dropping and pristinely preserved 5th and 6th century Byzantine mosaics. From the Basilica of San Vitale to the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the pictures of these mosaics don't do them justice. The detail, colors, and sheer scale of the mosaics left me in awe. I have so much respect for the talented artists who initially created these masterpieces and the dedicated people who have kept them in pristine condition for centuries. There are multiple schools in Ravenna dedicated to the art of mosaic creation and restoration.
Between popping in and out of world heritage sites, you have to grab a piadina. We were impressed by Profumo di Piadina, a little shop where you can grab one and walk to the Piazza del Popolo to sit on the curb and people watch. Incredibly friendly and helpful staff and the piadine were perfette. Before leaving town, make sure to stop by the tomb of Dante, the celebrated author of Divine Comedy.
Just north of the city is Marina di Ravenna where locals go to enjoy the beach and cool off in the Adriatic Sea. Fall asleep napping under an umbrella between dips in the ocean. Before you leave for the evening, stop by Casa Delle Aie for an "early" dinner. If you're not there by 7:30, be prepared for a wait. Better yet, make a reservation to ensure you can enjoy classic Romagnola food in a charming setting. I'm still dreaming of their ragù and I am determined to learn how to make ciambella at home.
Stay: One or two days. One for touring the city and one for escaping to the beach.
Breakfast is included
San Marino
Guaita, the oldest of San Marino's three towers, perched on Monte Titano.
Photo by Laura Oslick
Squeeze in another country while on your Italian vacation and visit San Marino, the oldest surviving republic. Perched atop Mount Titano in the Apennine Mountains, the historic center has a UNESCO-listed old town. Visit the three towers, Guaita, Cesta, and Montale, that cap the three mountain peaks. I may have been the only American that I saw that day as the city is more popular with European tourists. Be prepared for a glute workout with all the hills but the city is set up well for strollers and those with mobility restrictions.
Stay: Perfect for a day trip or you can stay one night. Pack a small overnight bag since cars can't reach inside the walled historical center. You'll need to carry your luggage up from the perimeter.
No consortia amenities at this property.
If you've done Rome and Florence more than once, this region is where to go next. Go in shoulder season if you can, the mosaics and the portico are better without a crowd in front of them.
My train is getting nearer to Venezia San Lucia, the next stop on this journey so I'll sign off for now.
Stay tuned to hear how that goes. Ciao!
